Do you know the properties and characteristics of various types of fibers?

1. Abrasion Resistance

Wear resistance refers to the ability to withstand friction during wear, which helps enhance the durability of fabrics. Garments made from fibers with high tensile strength and excellent wear resistance remain durable over time and exhibit only minimal signs of wear even after prolonged use.

Nylon is widely used in sportswear, such as ski jackets and soccer jerseys, thanks to its exceptional strength and abrasion resistance. Acetate fiber, with its excellent drape and low cost, is often employed as a lining for outerwear and jackets. However, due to its poor abrasion resistance, the lining tends to wear out or develop holes before the outer fabric of the jacket shows corresponding signs of wear.

II. Water Absorbency

Water absorption refers to the ability to absorb moisture and is typically expressed as the regain. For fibers, water absorption is defined as the percentage of moisture absorbed by a dry fiber when exposed to air under standard conditions—temperature of 70°F (21°C) and relative humidity of 65%.

Fibers that readily absorb water are called hydrophilic fibers. All natural animal and plant fibers, as well as two types of man-made fibers—viscose fiber and acetate fiber—are hydrophilic. Fibers that have difficulty absorbing water or can only take up small amounts of moisture are referred to as hydrophobic fibers. With the exception of viscose, Lyocell, and acetate fibers, all other man-made fibers are hydrophobic. Glass fiber, by contrast, does not absorb water at all, while most other fibers typically exhibit a moisture regain of 4% or less.

The water absorption of fibers affects their applications in many respects, including:

● Skin comfort: Due to poor absorbency, the flow of sweat can create a cold, damp sensation.
● Electrostatic property: Along with hydrophobic fibers, issues such as fabric adhesion and sparking can occur, as there is virtually no moisture to help dissipate the charged particles that accumulate on the fiber surface. Moreover, static electricity causes dust to be attracted to and adhere to the fibers.
● Dimensional stability after washing: After washing, hydrophobic fibers exhibit less shrinkage than hydrophilic fibers, and the fibers swell only slightly—this is one of the reasons for fabric shrinkage.
● Stain-removal performance: Stains are easily removed from hydrophilic fibers because the fibers simultaneously absorb both detergent and water.
● Water repellency: Hydrophilic fibers typically undergo extensive water-repellent, durable finishing treatments, as such chemical processing can further enhance their water-repellent properties.
● Crease recovery: Hydrophobic fibers generally exhibit superior wrinkle recovery, particularly after washing and ironing, because they do not absorb water, do not swell, and dry while remaining in a wrinkled state.

III. Chemical Action

During textile processing—such as printing, dyeing, and finishing—and in household or professional care applications—such as washing with soap, bleaching agents, and dry‑cleaning solvents—fibers are typically exposed to chemicals. The type of chemical, its concentration, and the duration of exposure all determine the extent of their impact on the fibers. Understanding how chemicals affect different fibers is crucial, as this directly influences the care required during laundering.

Fibers exhibit varying responses to chemicals. For instance, cotton fibers have relatively low acid resistance but excellent alkali resistance. Furthermore, cotton fabrics subjected to chemical resin–based permanent‑press finishes may experience a slight reduction in tensile strength.

IV. Coverage

Covering power refers to the ability to fill a given area. Coarse or crimped fibers provide better coverage than fine, straight fibers. Fabrics made from such fibers are warm, have a plush hand, and can be woven using fewer fibers.

Wool is a widely used fiber in winter apparel because its crimped structure provides excellent coverage and traps substantial amounts of still air within the fabric, effectively insulating it from external cold. The effectiveness of this insulation depends on the fiber’s cross-sectional shape, its longitudinal structure, and its weight.

5 Elasticity

Elasticity refers to the ability of a material to increase in length (elongation) under tensile stress and to return to its original state (recovery) once the external force is removed. When an external force is applied to fibers or fabrics, the resulting elongation can make garments more comfortable and reduce seam stresses; it also tends to enhance tensile strength. However, complete recovery may lead to sagging in areas such as elbow or knee joints, potentially causing the garment to lose its shape over time.

Fibers that can elongate by at least 100% are called elastic fibers. Spandex (also known as Lycra, and referred to as polyurethane fiber in China) and rubber fibers belong to this category. After being stretched, these elastic fibers can almost completely regain their original length.

VI. Environmental Conditions

Environmental conditions exert distinct effects on fibers. It is crucial to understand how fibers and the resulting fabrics respond to exposure, storage, and other factors.

Here are some examples:

● Wool garments should be protected from moths during storage, as they are susceptible to damage by wool‑eating moths.
● Nylon and silk lose strength when exposed to sunlight over long periods, so they are generally not used to make curtains or window and door coverings.
● Cotton fibers are prone to mold, so they should not be stored in humid environments for extended periods.

7. Flammability

Flammability refers to a material’s ability to ignite or burn. This is a critical property, as people’s daily lives are constantly surrounded by a wide variety of textiles. We know that clothing and indoor furnishings, because of their flammability, can cause serious injuries to consumers and result in substantial property damage.

Fibers are typically classified as flammable, non‑flammable, or flame‑retardant:

● Flammable fibers are those that can be easily ignited and will continue to burn.
● Non‑flammable fibers are those with a relatively high ignition temperature, a slow burning rate, and the ability to self‑extinguish once the source of ignition is removed.
● Flame-retardant fibers are fibers that do not burn.

Flammable fibers can be converted into flame‑retardant fibers through finishing processes or by modifying fiber properties. For example, conventional polyester is highly flammable, but Trevira polyester, after appropriate treatment, exhibits flame‑retardant characteristics.

8. Softness

Softness refers to a fiber’s ability to withstand repeated bending without breaking. Soft fibers, such as acetate, lend themselves to fabrics and garments with excellent drape. In contrast, rigid fibers like glass fiber are unsuitable for apparel but can be used in decorative textiles that require a relatively stiff, structured hand. Generally, the finer the fiber, the better its drape. Softness also influences the fabric’s hand feel.

Although fabrics are often required to drape well, sometimes a stiffer fabric is also needed. For example, in garments with capes—where the garment hangs over the shoulders and flares outward—a more rigid fabric is used to achieve the desired silhouette.

9. Handfeel

Hand feel refers to the sensation experienced when touching a fiber, yarn, or fabric. The hand feel of a fiber is influenced by its shape, surface characteristics, and internal structure. Fibers come in various forms—round, flattened, multi‑lobed, and more—and their surfaces may be smooth, serrated, or scaly. As for their appearance, fibers can be either crimped or straight. The type of yarn, the fabric’s construction, and post‑finishing processes also affect its hand feel. Common terms used to describe fabric hand feel include soft, smooth, dry, silk‑like, stiff, coarse, or rough.

10. Glossiness

Luster refers to the reflection of light from a fiber’s surface. A fiber’s luster is influenced by its intrinsic properties. A smooth surface, reduced crimp, a flat cross‑sectional shape, and longer fiber length all enhance light reflection. During fiber production, the drawing process increases luster by further smoothing the fiber surface. Conversely, the addition of matting agents disrupts light reflection, reducing luster. By carefully controlling the amount of matting agent added, it is possible to produce glossy fibers, semi‑matte fibers, and matte fibers.

Fabric luster is also influenced by yarn type, weave structure, and finishing treatments. The desired level of luster will depend on current fashion trends and customer preferences.

11. Pilling

Pilling refers to the formation of small balls on the surface of a fabric, created when short, broken fibers become entangled. These pills develop when fiber ends break free from the fabric’s surface, typically as a result of wear and tear. Pilling is undesirable because it makes fabrics—such as bed sheets—appear aged and unattractive, and can feel uncomfortable to the touch. Pills tend to form in areas subject to frequent friction, such as collars, underarms, and cuff edges.

Hydrophobic fibers are more prone to pilling than hydrophilic fibers, because hydrophobic fibers tend to attract static electricity and are less likely to detach from the fabric surface. Pills are rarely seen on 100% cotton shirts, but they are very common on similar shirts made from polyester–cotton blends after a period of wear. Although wool is hydrophilic, pills still form due to its scale‑like surface; the fibers twist and entangle with one another, creating a pill. High‑strength fibers readily hold onto pills on the fabric surface, whereas low‑strength fibers that break easily do not pill as readily because the pills fall off more readily.

12. Resilience

Resilience refers to a material’s ability to regain its original shape after being folded, twisted, or distorted. It is closely related to wrinkle recovery. Fabrics with good resilience are less prone to wrinkling and thus more easily maintain their desirable appearance.

Coarser fibers exhibit better resilience because they possess greater mass to absorb deformation. Additionally, fiber morphology influences resilience; circular fibers demonstrate superior resilience compared to flattened fibers.

Fiber properties are also a factor. Polyester fibers exhibit excellent resilience, whereas cotton fibers have very poor resilience. Consequently, it’s hardly surprising that these two types of fibers are often blended in products such as men’s shirts, women’s loose-fitting tops, and bed sheets.

When pronounced creases are desired in a garment, fibers with good resilience can be somewhat problematic. Creases form easily in cotton or coarse viscose fabrics, but they are less likely to appear in dry wool fabrics. Wool fibers are resistant to bending and wrinkling, and they can regain their original shape after being creased.

13 Relative Density

Relative density is the ratio of a fiber’s mass to the mass of an equal volume of water at 4°C. Lightweight fibers can make fabrics warm without being bulky, allowing for thick, fluffy textiles that still maintain a low weight. Acrylonitrile fiber is a prime example: it is much lighter than wool yet exhibits properties similar to wool, making it widely used in lightweight, insulating blankets, scarves, thick socks, and other winter apparel.

14 Electrostatics

Static electricity is the electric charge generated when two different materials rub against each other. When these charges build up on the fabric’s surface, the garment may cling to the wearer, or lint may adhere to the fabric. Upon contact between the fabric surface and another material, an electrical spark or shock can occur—a rapid discharge process. If the static charge on the fiber surface is neutralized at the same rate as it is transferred, the static phenomenon can be eliminated.

The moisture contained within fibers can act as a conductor to dissipate electrical charges and help prevent the electrostatic effects mentioned earlier. Hydrophobic fibers, due to their very low moisture content, tend to generate static electricity. Static charge also occurs in natural fibers, but it becomes comparable to that of hydrophobic fibers only under extremely dry conditions. Glass fiber is an exception among hydrophobic fibers: because of its chemical composition, static charges cannot accumulate on its surface.

Fabrics containing E‑Biotic fibers—fibers that conduct electricity—eliminate static‑electricity issues; the carbon or metal they contain enables the fibers to dissipate accumulated static charges. Since carpets often suffer from static‑electricity problems, materials such as Monsanto’s Ultron nylon are used in carpet applications. These E‑Biotic fibers prevent electric shocks, reduce fabric cling, and minimize dust attraction. In specialized work environments where static electricity poses a significant hazard, it is crucial to use low‑static fibers in areas such as hospitals, workspaces near computers, and locations handling flammable or explosive liquids or gases.

Fifteen: Intensity

Strength is the ability of a fiber to resist stress. Fiber strength is defined as the force required to cause the fiber to break, expressed in grams-force per denier or newtons per tex (the法定计量单位).

16 Thermoplastic

The heat resistance of fibers is a critical factor influencing their performance in various applications. It is also a key consideration in fiber processing, as many fabric‑forming processes—such as dyeing, ironing, and thermal setting—involve heating. Moreover, heat is frequently used to care for and refresh garments and upholstered furnishings.

Some thermal effects are temporary and readily apparent only during the heating process. For example, in dyeing, the properties of fibers may change under heat but return to their original state upon cooling. However, other thermal effects can be permanent, resulting from molecular rearrangements that lead to the fiber’s own degradation. Heat-setting, by contrast, alters molecular alignment, rendering fabrics more dimensionally stable—exhibiting minimal shrinkage—and more resistant to wrinkling, without causing noticeable degradation. Nevertheless, prolonged exposure to high temperatures can trigger degradation, such as reduced strength, fiber shrinkage, and discoloration. Many consumers have experienced severe fabric degradation, or even damage to garments, caused by ironing at excessively high temperatures.

When heated, thermoplastic fibers become pliable and can melt into a liquid state at higher temperatures. Many synthetic fibers exhibit thermoplastic behavior. By applying heat to fabrics containing thermoplastic fibers, creases and pleats can be formed without melting the fibers; once the temperature drops, these impressions remain as durable, long‑lasting folds. During heating (softening), thermoplastic fibers can be molded into specific shapes, and upon cooling, the molded form is retained. When ironing garments made from synthetic fibers, care must be taken to avoid softening or melting—since softened or melted fibers may begin to stick to the iron—and any resulting creases will be permanent unless exposed to even higher temperatures that reverse the initial heat‑setting process. This method can also be used to shape the overall silhouette of a garment, and thermoplastic fabrics offer excellent dimensional stability.

17 Capillary Action

Capillary action refers to the ability of fibers to transport moisture from one location to another. Typically, moisture moves along the fiber’s surface; however, when the liquid is absorbed by the fiber, it can also pass through the fiber itself. The tendency for capillary action in fibers often depends on the chemical and physical composition of their outer surface. A smooth surface reduces the effect of capillary action.

This article is reposted from A WeChat official account post from Sanqiang Premium Yarn.